May 6 — 13 · Eight days

Santiago &
Valparaíso.

33°S — a weekend by the sea, a Sunday in the Andes

Eight days. Three peaks. The rest stays open.

Weekdays split: you work, I'll roam. Evenings we meet up. Three things anchor the week: a Friday–Saturday in Valparaíso, a Sunday up to the Andes, and Tuesday at Demencia.

The week
May 6 Wednesday Arrival

Landing at 2:35 AM. Meet up for dinner at Mestizo.

Evening · together
Dinner: Mestizo

Park setting, good food, easy first night. No rush.

May 7 Thursday You work

I'll work from Café Forastero and wander Barrio Yungay. Dinner at Liguria when you're off.

Evening · together
Dinner: Liguria

Classic Santiago bistro — pisco sours, ceviches, home by 10. Chill night before the weekend.

May 8 Friday · your day off Peak one · Valpo

Morning bus to Valparaíso. Afternoon to settle. Golden hour on the cerros, dinner up the hill, and a bar with live music if we're feeling it.

10–11 AM
Pullman bus to Valparaíso

~90 minutes from Terminal Alameda. Arrive early afternoon, drop bags on Cerro Alegre.

Afternoon
A long lunch, then a pause

Lunch somewhere with a view — Café Turri or Almacén Nacional. Then actually rest at the hotel until 5:30.

5:30 PM · golden hour
Walk Cerro Alegre → Cerro Concepción

The Friday peak. Light over the painted houses, the Pacific out to the west, funiculars running.

8:00 PM · dinner
Fauna — terrace over the port

Cerro Alegre boutique hotel's restaurant. The terrace is the whole point — port lights coming on as we dine. I'll book ahead.

11 PM · if we have the energy.
Brighton or La Piedra Feliz

Both two-minute walks from where we're staying. Brighton has live Latin music starting at 11 on a black-and-white tile terrace. La Piedra Feliz has a salsa room, a tango room, and actual dance classes if we want to jump in. If we're tired, skip.

May 9 Saturday Valpo · slow

No alarms. Coffee with a view. One more walk, Neruda's house, a long lunch, then the bus home.

Morning · slow
Coffee on the terrace, then Cerros Alegre + Concepción again

Whatever we missed yesterday, in different light. Funicular if we didn't ride one.

Late morning
La Sebastiana — Neruda's house (Optional)

Not walking distance — short Uber to Cerro Florida. Five-story clutter and the best view in the city from the top floor. 45 minutes inside, then back.

1:30 PM · lunch
Unhurried, back on the cerros

La Concepción or wherever has a terrace. Two hours minimum.

~4 PM
Bus back to Santiago

Home by 6. Quiet Saturday night — takeout, bed early. Sunday needs energy.

May 10 Sunday Peak two · Andes

Up to Embalse el Yeso, the glacial lake in the Cajón. A driver for the day. 10 AM start, home for dinner.

10 AM
Driver picks us up.

No early alarm. The road closes for winter by late May, so this is the last window.

Midday
Up to 2,500m — Embalse el Yeso

Turquoise glacial reservoir ringed by snow peaks. Autumn color on the drive up.

~1:30 PM
Picnic at the lake

I'll pack it. Bread, cheese, fruit, thermos. Thin air, cold wind, quiet.

Afternoon
Baños Morales on the way down — optional

Thermal pools. Warmth after the altitude. Skip if we're cooked.

Evening
Home by 6–7. Takeout, done.

You have work tomorrow. Keep it chill.

May 11 Monday You work

Light solo day for me. Chill dinner together.

My day
Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

One of the best museums in South America. Then wander.

Evening · together
Dinner near you. Rest is TBD.

Home by 10. Protect the week.

May 12 Tuesday Peak three · Demencia

Daytime solo. The night is Demencia — the nicest dinner.

Daytime · solo
Barrio Franklin — Persa Bío-Bío

Sprawling flea market, antiques, food stalls.

Evening · booked
Demencia

Benjamín Nast's place. Playful, creative Chilean ingredients.

After
Walk home the long way

Cold May night, quiet streets.

May 13 Wednesday Out

Morning coffee optional. Afternoon flight.

Morning
Black Mamba or wherever's close

Short goodbye.

Reference

Dinners

  • Liguria — Thu · unfussy bistro
  • Fauna — Fri · Valpo terrace
  • La Concepción — Sat lunch
  • Demencia — Tue · the closer

Valpo nightlife

  • Brighton — live Latin, Fri/Sat 11 PM
  • La Piedra Feliz — salsa, tango rooms, dance classes
  • El Internado — Cerro Alegre · mellow

Weekend

  • Valpo — Fri–Sat · Cerro Alegre stay
  • Cajón del Maipo — Sun · driver, 10 AM

Practical

  • Weather — 16°C day, 7°C night · jacket
  • Valpo bus — Pullman from Terminal Alameda
  • Cash — markets only · card everywhere else

I'll handle bookings — the Valpo stay, Fauna, Demencia, Sunday's driver. Tell me if you want to swap anything.